Luxury Travel Wisdom

Getting up at the crack of dawn, we hopped onto the much-touted Train to the Clouds at 6.30 am… and it was well worth the early start. Climbing thousands of feet while hopscotching between the passenger cart, the lively bar (and its never-ending stream of hip-shockingly cool 80s music) and the dining cart, our day was filled with uninterrupted vistas of imposing mountain landscapes, bits of ice and snow and powder-blue skies.

It took our breath away. Literally. Because by the time we reached 4 000 feet above sea level (and counting), I was in the well-equipped and delightfully staffed hospital carriage – hooked up to an industrial-sized canister for a much-needed 10-minute oxygen boost.

Après our train journey, we hit the road again by mid-afternoon and out route took us past the picture-perfect and beautifully desolate salt plains of Salinas Grandes en route to Purmamarca’s delightful village of Cuesto de Lipan where we arrived at dusk. Enchanting, tranquil and very upmarket all at once, this little enclave yet again reminded half some of the quaintest hidden gems in the Karoo, with strong undercurrents of traditional Mexican villages. In fact, the typical architecture and tangible sense of community life dotting the landscapes of northern Argentina are belied by a sense of peace and quiet – and fresh air – that encapsulated South America’s singular charm.

La Comarca hotel is nestled in a narrow stretch of valley and blends in effortlessly with its awe-inspiring surrounding – filled with the textures and hues so typical of this stretch of the country bordering Bolivia. The sheer luxury of this quietly comfy hotel ensured that all three of us got the best night’s sleep on the trip so far and we woke refreshed and ready for another day of adventures… Fuelled by the hotel’s remarkably good coffee, we were on the road by 9. More about that soon. Riekie Human

After bidding our dreamy desert location (Merced del Alto) in Cachi goodbye, we set out early morning to explore what can only be described as a deserted wonder world. An uncanny rendition of Yellowstone, the Mojave desert and Prince Albert in the Karoo. And then some.

Breathtaking scenery, temperate climes and eventually – valleys opening up to verdant vineyards, such as El Esteco Winery in Cafayate, where we had a glorious luncheon on the patio before a well-timed  siesta on the loungers poolside.

And in complete contrast, our day ended back in Salta, where the sleek inner-city haven of the Design Suites hotel provided ultra-modern comfort and a welcome respite after almost 1 000 km of gravel road in two days. Set close to the heart of the city’s main square – surrounded by delightful French-style cafes and eateries – the hotel’s enviable location allowed us to hit the town for more empanadas and Salta lager… By now, our trademark order, with Diaan being the undisputed connoisseur who insists on sampling the traditional bite-sized savoury treats in just about every town and cafe we pass.  Riekie Human

Images courtesy of Hotel La Merced del Alto

As with all the best and most unique experiences in life, what you put in can greatly affect what you get out. Reaching the enchanting mountain village of Cachi – nestled within a valley surrounded by some of the highest mountains in South America – is a case in point.

It’s not an easy trek, but it’s a beautiful one, and after about 4.5 hours (from Salta city in the north of Argentina) and climbing a staggering 3 400 feet by way of a winding gravel road in beautiful light, and fresh, fresh air, a quaint oasis awaited – the kind most mainstream tourists miss completely.

Fortified and fuelled by generous helpings of perfectly prepared empanadas and tamales, washed down with with icy and refreshing Salta lager, we set out just after lunch and reached the inimitable Merced del Alto on the outskirts of Cachi just in time for dinner.

And what a dinner it was. More memorable local Malbecs were par for the course, accompanied by delicacies such as local lamb slow-cooked in an age-old tradition. We were enthralled. Lavish rooms, luscious linen and waking up in a postcard setting all resulted in us being loathe to leave.

Thankfully, we’re going to be treated to stays at two sister properties of Merced del Alto during the next week. Needless to say … we can’t wait.  Riekie Human and Nikki Benatar

Images by Diaan de Beer

Nikki Benatar writes: After our lavish stay at the Park Hyatt Mendoza, we embarked on our first day in Argentina refreshed and rested. First stop, Norton Bodega, which blew us away. From its enviable location at the foothills of the Cordon del Plata mountains (nestled in front of the snow-capped Andes) to a mesmerizing cellar tour and a delectable tasting in the winery’s private garden.

We then moved on to Ruca Malen wine farm and restaurant – one of the top three gourmet eateries in the Mendoza region. In fact, Frommers dubbed it ‘the best wine restaurant in South America’. Not without reason. Our host guided us through a three-hour five-course food-and-wine pairing that included a line-up of specially created mouthwatering dishes, and some of the finest wines.

Alta Vista was a fitting final stop on our wine tour and the winery’s many award-winning wines had us hook, line and sinker.

Dinner at the grand five-star Diplomatic Hotel’s La Bourgognon restaurant (the only Relais & Gourmand restaurant in Mendoza) was an unparalleled treat and Diego, our host, was a veritable font of knowledge about everything from local olive oils to the various ingredients of the delectable dishes on offer.

And, if you´re travelling in an intimate group or as a family and want to experience a farm-stay on the outskirts of the city, opt for Villa Victoria – a renovated historical family home with a dreamy wraparound verandah.

Image by Diaan de Beer

Riekie writes: After more than a day of travelling, Nikki, Diaan and I arrived last night – exhausted but excited. Mendoza – the picturesque wine mecca of Argentina – has already stolen our hearts. Not least for the bustling tree-lined inner city streets filled with cafes and character. When we stopped in front of the imposing façade of the Park Hyatt Mendoza, we positively gasped. Set right on the vast and bustling town square (so typical of rural Argentina’s urban landscapes), the historical charm of hotel’s exterior reminds you of the mansions and villas described in Isabel Allende’s novels, while the interiors are a testimony to modern design sensibilities and utter luxury. From dimmed night lights in the lavish bedroom-sized bathroom to the freshly-baked pastries and fluffy white robes and towels, we were thoroughly spoilt. Not to mention the much-needed loofahs to wash away our travelling tiredness and a magnum-sized vase of fresh lilies in each bathroom to make us feel at home.

The cherry on top? The welcoming glass of local Malbec we received upon arrival – perfectly and ever so slightly chilled to the correct temperature to enjoy this chocolatey cultivar. It was a fitting taste of things to come as we are setting out today to explore some of the top wineries – and eateries – in the Mendoza wine region…Argentina’s answer to the Cape’s winelands of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, and one of the most coveted wine regions in South America.

Well, the constant puffing of Puyehue volcano in Chile since early June nearly scuppered this trip, but they’ve arrived… long-time fans of JUST THE PLANET – travel writers Nikki Benatar and Riekie Human – as well as photographer Diaan de Beer are now in Argentina on a 11-day journey to sip wines in Mendoza, take the terrifyingly high railroad from Salta on the Train to the Clouds and explore the hip and happening Buenos Aires – with some serious shopping, a tango lesson and menu-hopping in some of country’s best restaurants inbetween. The first blog has just pinged into our inbox – more on it’s way…

I’m sitting at The Beach House restaurant in St Kitts staring over a turquoise sea and out to the island of Nevis. As in all my Caribbean dreaming, the cool condensation from an icy rum cocktail runs down my arm as the waitress sashays off to the kitchen with my lobster lunch order. A palm frond overhead is buffeted softly by a silken sea breeze which also carries over a swinging calypso tune. I sigh contentedly and for once I do not wake up. No siree… today I am living the dream and savouring every last drop of the cocktail !

This classy restaurant is one of the first bits of Christophe Harbour to be built and services four stunning villas overlooking the tranquillity of Turtle Beach. What I love so very muchly about the place is that it doesn’t interfere with the environment. It’s beautifully understated both inside and out. Hooooray for having such sensitivity (the Marriott could take a leaf or two out of your book). I’ll get down to the the nitty gritty in a proper hotel / villa review on Just The Planet this week (or early next) – so keep an eye out – but for now let’s get back to eating lunch…

I had three lobster tails… THREE, and there’s the photo to prove it. There were also some sensational conch fritters and calamari to start – lightly battered and perfectly crispy with a Caesar side salad. After lunch it made perfect sense to retire to my villa for a little lie-down on my comfy deckchair. Each property faces a beach so quiet it could almost be your own. Doors are flung open wide onto private patios… and each has its own gazebo with an outdoor lounge and infinity plunge pool. And if you lie in your big king-size bed and peek over the top of the duvet… aaaah yes, there we go… the sea.

A short walk along the beach and you’re back at the restaurant, ready for a sundowner. There’s usually a member of the Christophe Harbour team around looking impossibly healthy and relaxed. Yes, this must be island living. Before you know it you’ll be asking for a quick squizz at their gorgeous brochure… and then designing your own Caribbean dream house on the back of a paper napkin. G’won… you know you want to.

I flew out to St Kitts last Saturday with a group of PRs, journalists and publishers for a press tour of Christophe Harbour… a proposed luxury real estate opportunity set on a pristine 2,500 acres of beautiful Caribbean island.

As a South African, and one used to big landscapes and wide open spaces, my initial reaction was to balk in horror that almost a third of this little jewel was to be dug up and built upon. Is no place on this planet sacred ? And as I did some more research of Basseterre (the capital) and surrounds, flipping through tourism brochures and looking at the various travel websites of the island, the likes of the enormous Marriott hotel jumped out and my heart sank further. “TELL ME I didn’t see TWO casinos,” I pleaded with the critic on my shoulder, who had already passed out cold and slid down my arm.

Well I can say now it’s a very good thing I went out there to see it all first hand. Sometimes we all need a little saving from ourselves. And I think St Kitts is no different. The island could so easily go the way of others in the Caribbean. For who hasn’t seen massive resort hotels dominating what used to be paradise beaches, whilst hulking great cruise ships block ports and seascapes, offloading thousands of insatiable shoppers who swarm through these small harbours like ravenous Pacmen.

But not this future for St Kitts if the guys at Christophe Harbour have anything to say about it. All of the south-eastern point of the island will be taken up by the development and it’s all 100% class. Instead of tacky hotels and ugly housing estates, Fazio Golf Course Designers Inc will shortly get stuck into building one of the most picturesque championship courses in the world. And a planned mega-yacht harbour and marina will also aim to steal the limelight and possibly a lot of the attention away from Antigua too. I want to tell all about the sensational villas, five-star hotels, spas, shopping and the Beach Club next…. but it’ll have to wait till my next blog.

Whitstable is a great little town to unleash your inner glutton. We tried Jojo’s (Tapas, Meat and Meze)  for lunch and ate so much we expected forklifts and a jeering Jerry Springer show to laugh us out of the restaurant. Our expanding waistbands and creaking chairs could’ve had something to do with massively over-ordering  (ehm… cough… we did leave ONE half of a deep fried pea and mint risotto ball on the plate). I maaay’ve used the excuse “I’m blogging about this so must therefore order everything on the menu”. Whose nose ?

Did I mention that before this we tried to blag our way into Wheeler’s Oyster Bar ? This magnificent, polished little periwinkle of a place just won a spot in Britain’s Top 100 Restaurants, published by The Sunday Times Food List. It only seats 14 people so it really wasn’t going to happen. Instead, we queued as everyone else did, and we ate our oysters al fresco out of a plastic bucket, standing in the street. But they did supply the black pepper, tabasco and lemon so we weren’t complaining !

Apparently that wasn’t enough for our insatiable appetites. We HAD booked into The Crab & Winkle, just above the fish market over-looking the harbour but we actually couldn’t haul our lardy selves off the couch. Well, you’ve seen The Oyster Shack below. Would you have wanted to leave ? Instead we patted our bellies, surveyed our sensational sea view and vowed we’d be back again and again and again…

If you love seafood you owe it to yourself to visit Whitstable. And if you don’t, there’s always Fiocco di Spalla, Serrano Bodega Ham, Cecina Smoked Cured Beef and the Monkshill Mutton & Feta Koftas at Jojo’s… and then hotfoot down the beachfront before Biggest Loser UK harpoons you from behind and drags you off to boot camp.

… I do like to be beside the seaaaaaaa !

On Monday morning I woke up to the sound of waves crashing on the shore. Obviously this was hugely disturbing to me as I live in London. But wait… no I don’t ! Well, not that particular Monday.

Just under two hours in the car (most of it getting in and out of London) and you’re on the Kentish Coast, in the little town of Whitstable. And if you’re very lucky, you’ll know about and be staying at The Oyster Shack (also known as The Beacon House and The Artists’ Beach House) on Tankerton Beach. This property’s extraordinary location is probably the most envied on the entire coast as it’s literally 5 metres from the beach. Happy people stroll past walking their dogs, breathing sea air or getting some exercise… but other than that, it (and the house next door) is on its own.

It’s one of those ‘lived in’ houses… utterly unpretentious. There’s a proper kitchen with enough space for 8 cooks to make a mess. It is also properly stocked so that the Head Chef doesn’t have a nervous breakdown when faced with 50 oysters and no means to shuck. The oven cooked 2 damn good roast chickens and 8 whole trout too.

Pardon as I skid back to the oysters. The house is about a 10 minute walk from the fish market along the beach and the harbour. It’s filled with fresh fish daily and more oysters than you could consume in a weekend. I know, I tried.

More about Whitstable tomorrow… I’m hungry…