I’m thinking about the film ‘Sliding Doors’ and how one’s life can be lived in duality. The ‘what if I chose that path instead of this one’… if I’d just married the footballer when the opportunity arose (it didn’t but this is my story)… I too could’ve lived a life of  handbags, shoes and spa holidays. Instead, I am very much living the life of a normal person who doesn’t get to step from a private jet into a waiting Hummer only to be whisked off to the latest spa-du-jour. So when the opportunity arises, instead of being smugly in-the-know, I’m like a small child at Christmas: too excited to be cool… and hell bent on making the most out of it.

So herewith Part Deux of the Karkloof Spa story.

After being so graciously received by the staff at the lodge, I was pointed in the direction of the spa and handed my keys to the kingdom of leisure. In reality it was only a locker key and, for one that isn’t prone to exaggeration (ha!), in it was a robe I can swear was hand-woven by Aphrodite. The staff at the spa are hand-picked from all over the world for their talents and I noticed a fair number of Thai therapists – globally renowned for their magical sensory powers.

As a first-timer at Karkloof, I was taken on a walk around the spa and shown the spacious treatment rooms (17 in total – two of which are for couples). The rooms, like the villas, have extensive views over the gardens and sweeping vistas of the bush. I particularly loved that the design of the place is so in touch with the surrounding landscape and that because it has been built with natural materials (thatch and living grass roofs), animals graze in blissful ignorance overhead whilst you sip on organic green tea.

Spa views (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

I had a look into the luxurious Manicure/Pedicure and Rassoul rooms… gasped at the sheer size of the Flotation Pool (guaranteed to send any stressed recipient into orbits of relaxation) and then tried for myself the Kneip Pools (those hot and cold ones), Jacuzzi, Sauna and Steam rooms. At this point, I believe I felt my first twang of smugness.

Floatation Room (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

Spa pools (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

Kneip pools (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

At my allotted time I was fetched to the treatment room by my therapist and given a ceremonial foot cleanse with salt scrub. I had to look incredibly serious even though having my feet kneaded with salt made me want to burst out laughing and run around in circles. So not how a footballer’s wife would behave.

I was then shown to the massage table. I don’t know about you but I mostly approach these beds with caution… knowing that lying face down on some of them there’ll be a bit of tissue sticking into my eyeball or suffocating towelling covering a necessary airway… or worse, a bit of metal digging into my temple. And I dare not move lest I disturb the mood of my spa journey. But I am pleased to say that this one was wonderfully comfortable – and I arose after my hour-long massage feeling delightfully sleepy, relaxed and at peace with the universe.

Massage heaven (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

These therapists really do know what they are doing. At no point did mine make a sound (in fact I remember filling in a form at reception asking me whether I wanted a chat to which I firmly ticked the ‘no’ option) – and it was as if a lone pair of hands was in the room with me softly but firmly soothing away my every stress and strain. It was so good that I almost burst in to tears when she had finished. To me that’s always the mark of a successful massage.

I was interested to see that the spa uses Pevonia, an internationally acclaimed member of the American Organic association – and wondered why they didn’t go for a more local African product… but they must have their reasons.

I was horrified to have to give back my robe… and changing back into my clothes did bring me back down to earth a little (they should possibly think about transporting you back to your room in a wheelchair). The entire experience was perfect. From reception to the point I was delivered into the darkness for the walk back to my villa where, I believe, I ‘floated lonely as a cloud’ – albeit a happy, pampered one.

Tatler has just awarded Karkloof Spa ‘Most Exciting Discovery 2009’ and it’s one of Condé Nast Traveller’s ‘Hot List Spas’ of the year. International applause for this fabulous South African destination spa… and definitely a reason to visit and see for myself.

I went in autumn when the late afternoon light lay golden over the winding rivers, pale orange over the lush landscapes and warm yellow on the road that wound up to the lodge. A white rhino gazed at us lazily over his grassy munchings and a few warthogs, tails on high alert, sprinted into the bushes.

Autumn light and warthogs (image: Robyn Hodson)

Lunching white rhino (image: Robyn Hodson)

The best part of the drive up to the lodge is that the whole place is barely visible… and the spa is set into the hillside with thatched and flat grass rooftops camouflaging any human activity from the wild animals that wander around the property (all vegetarians you’ll be pleased to know).

Hidden spa (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

The main lodge is huge, stylish and comfortable – cozy with generous fireplaces and heated floors for winter and then bright and cool in hot weather with large doors flung wide open to let in light summery breezes. The spacious outside balcony and comfortable setting is brilliant for sunset watching, champagne or G’nT drinking and romantic comfy couch snuggling!

Main lodge deck (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

Pool at main lodge (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

I loved my private villa – the best of the sixteen I thought! A lot of planning, intuition and skillful designing went into it. Perched on a hillside looking out at the best of the views it also had wrap around doors that could be fully retracted to make the most of the stunning scenery. I slept with the doors open all night and watched the sun rise from my bed, camera in hand.

Villa - lounge and view (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

I’l get back to you on the animals, walks, spa and food but suffice to say… I can’t think of anything negative. Start saving! And if you’re considering a private, relaxed, gourmet honeymoon… look no further!

We know that you’re all hungry for news, so now that our blog is up and running, we’re giving you a taste of our recent travels and discoveries. First up from me is the Durban Travel Indaba – the biggest travel show in Africa, held annually in Durban. Traditionally, it’s surprisingly hot and humid so I packed pretty sandals and summer clothes for what I thought would be a perfect escape from the Cape winter. Capetonians were experiencing icy cold winds when I left, but I religiously packed only for summer, hoping for the humid heat I’d experienced over the past three years and leaving space for at least 10kgs of brochures, business cards etc to come back.

What we didn’t expect were monsoon-esque rain showers and brisk winds that blustered for two days… and we’d already booked ahead for a table on the outdoor terrace at the lovely Harvey’s restaurant at 465 Innes Rd, Morningside. Our Travel Editor, Robyn Hodson, was out from London so we were hoping for a balmy evening outdoors. Instead, turn-on-the-tap downpours on the awning above, sent doormen with large umbrellas dashing to and from cars. My beautiful leather and lace pumps were safer out of the deluge that was sending rivers down Innes Road, so we savoured our meal and lingered, enjoying the vibe. Definitely a ‘Little Black Book’ favourite for me (love the décor) and I hope to be back…although I’ll be checking the reviews before I do. Rumour has it that service hasn’t been so good of late, but we certainly couldn’t fault the food and ambience – even if it was a little brrrr sitting outside!

Business at Indaba was not as brisk as last year, there was more time for real conversations, hatching ideas for great travel features and getting to know new properties. My notebook is bulging with highlights but these top the scales:

1. The Best of KZN launch: for those who don’t yet know KwaZulu-Natal, I suggest you look at the 6 owner-run establishments in this new group http://www.bestofkzn.co.za/ – all of them are, without doubt exceptional and unique in their own right. And did I mention the food? It was extraordinary. All the chefs worked together to serve 800 gourmet dishes to 100 guests in just over an hour with wines to match.

2. Catching up at cocktails at Classic Retreats and hearing how Joburg’s gorgeous boutique hotel, Athol Place, is stealing the hearts of discerning travellers. And the launch of another real beauty: the Zambezi Queen – Tony Stern’s sleek new baby – a contemporary houseboat moored on the banks of the Chobe River and offering a Luxury African River Safari.

3. Listening to Rob Ferguson of andBeyond (previously Conservation Corporation Africa) talk about their plans for Latin America…still very hush, hush but wonderfully exciting so watch this space. And have you been to The Homestead at Phinda? If you can’t bear the thought of leaving, you can now buy your very own African Homestead too. Email me for more info…on michelle@justtheplanet.com

4. Meeting Vanie Padaychee again, the chef from Fu.shi in Plett who has now moved to the hottest cookery school in Prince Albert in the Karoo. It’s called African Relish. Watch this space as I’m driving 5 hours into this arid landscape tomorrow to see it in person.

5. And meeting another foodie hero, celebrated chef, Bruce Robertson (ex The Showroom), who has embarked on a new project called the ‘afro-gastronaut’. Be sure to email me quickly if you want to book a gastronomic highlight that you’ll remember forever.

6. Hearing that Karkloof Spa had just won a second award in quick succession – we tested the spa a day later and couldn’t agree more. Tatler voted it ‘Most Exciting Discovery of 2009’ and Indaba voted it Best Lodge at the Welcome Awards. And speaking of awards: Jack’s Camp walked away with The Good Safari Guide Award for the ‘Best Camp in Africa’. There’s good reason why gorgeous couple Ralph and Catherine make it to the top: the experience they offer is unique. Mmmmm… we also have our sights set on the really wild and authentic Selous Project, part of the Great Plains safari group. Watch this space.

7. Meeting Alexandra Otto from Coral Lodge 15.41 Mozambique. This luxury lodge with interiors by Dutch Designer, Edward van Vliet, is right near the UNESCO Heritage Site, Ilha de Mozambique. Opening in September.

8. Relais & Chateaux’s new and stylish stand, designed to match the equally high standard, warmth and character of all its establishments.

9. Chatting to Andy Payne at Wilderness Safaris – always a pleasure to listen to someone so passionate about conservation. He believes that ‘businesses with soul will thrive’ – we couldn’t agree more.

10. And what about the hottest news of all? Singita is creating yet another exquisite masterpiece on a private island in the Seychelles. I’ll be keeping you posted!

A generalisation I know (but it works as a comparison) – most Americans don’t ever leave their own country and travel abroad and many don’t ever leave their own state. It is also true that many Capetonians are as hopeless when it comes to travelling in South Africa. We live in the most beautiful city in the world… so why bother checking out KwaZulu-Natal or Gauteng except to head straight for the bush? So I am pleased to announce… drum roll… that this Capetonian has not only discovered the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands (all by herself)… but is going to wax lyrical about it right here (please don’t blow my cover if you discovered it years ago).

What an incredible place to go on holiday. The route from Johannesburg into the Midlands is quite extraordinary. From the dry, red and largely barren route through the Highlands of Gauteng and the Free State, the road takes a beautiful deep dive over Van Reenen’s pass (with gorgeous sweeping views of the Drakensburg Mountains and Anglo-Boer War Battlefields Route) down into the valley below. Nostalgia is born to any African as the landscape changes and the long green grasses peppered with flat-topped Thorny Acacia trees stretch out far into the distance.

KwaZulu-Natal's Thorny Acacia (image: Robyn Hodson

Grassy Battlefields Route (image: Robyn Hodson)

Morning in the Drakensburg (image: Robyn Hodson)

Once in the Midlands, the best place to head off the big highway and start a gentle meander is Nottingham Road. And there you simply must meander… slowly, peacefully and bearing in mind that you don’t want to miss a thing. There are wonderful craft shops, places to stop for good food, country hotels, farms selling home-made cheeses, meats and baked goodies… a CHOCOLATIER… and two pretty impressive boarding schools : Hilton College and Michaelhouse. (NOTE to self: Please PLEASE read “SPUD” – written by home-grown J.H. van de Ruit. I think it’s one of the funniest books ever written and gives a marvellous character-study of the area and boarding schools in general). It really is all a little reminiscent of leafy England.

View from Swissland Cheese Tasting (image: Robyn Hodson)

I promise to go into more detail next time about the Meander… and I can hardly wait to tell you about Karkloof Spa.

Karkloof Spa (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

In this seasoned traveller’s opinion (and the reason I love my job so very muchly)… it’s one of the best spas I have ever had the pleasure of visiting… and probably the only one that has a grass roof and the truly surreal sight of a giraffe grazing on top.

NOTE : The giraffes are up to something. See blog below.

In December I decided to take a break from London living (the dreaded winter and the relentless blah of the BBC and their terminal view of the economic situation) and decided to work on JUST THE PLANET with my partners in Cape Town. The best decision I have made in years ! So much to do… and a Cape Town summer to do it in. Not a hard choice, obviously!

My first trip back home was to a wedding in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands via a new safari lodge outside of Ladysmith on route from Johannesburg to Durban called Nambiti Plains. Partly sponsored by the wonderful Status Luxury Vehicles (see http://tinyurl.com/ktwd8r) my friend and I drove the Landrover Discovery all the way. What a car – almost like driving a spaceship and so comfortable.

We arrived at Nambiti Plains in time for lunch and were received by the staff with cold drinks and cool hand towels… mmmm… there’s nothing like being taken care of after a long drive. We had a look around the place – particularly liking that each room was its own private villa. We had an uninterrupted view of the landscapes and at one stage had an inquisitive giraffe flutter her eyelashes at us from about 100 metres away. Quite something to behold whilst brushing your teeth!

Nambiti Plains: Peeking giraffe (image: Robyn Hodson)

The lodge was vast and comfortable… huge decks, sweeping views of the bush and waterhole and comfy deckchairs in which to relax and read.

Nambiti Plains: Outdoor lounge (image: Kim Thunder & Nambiti Plains)

I won’t go into the food – suffice to say that it was five star all the way with a wonderful mix of African and European tastes.

The safari drives were beautiful – there’s nothing like a good local guide to make even the smallest plant or animal interesting… and then there were the cheetahs – six of them in total, a band of brothers, long tails steering them into the twilight.

After G’nTs on the patio, a delicious dinner with our enthusiastic and entertaining hosts and then time for bed under a royal canopy of draped mosquito nets (which incidentally we didn’t need in the slightly cooler winter air).

Nambiti Plains: Decadent dinner (image: Kim Thunder & Nambiti Plains)

Oh how I long to go back… I suppose what I loved most was that due to the intimate size of the place the visitor is king. There isn’t a single wish that isn’t granted. Staff are always on hand to help. The guide is your own and there aren’t large groups of people to spoil your fanciful musings.

Nambiti Plains: Pool at dusk (image: Kim Thunder & Nambiti Plains)

I also LOVE having an outdoor shower… it’s all so ‘Out of Africa’!

Nambiti Plains: Outside shower (image: Kim Thunder & Nambiti Plains)