luxury travel wisdom …

Jul
9

Miles and miles meandering in a mazy motion…

Posted by Robyn Hodson

A generalisation I know (but it works as a comparison) – most Americans don’t ever leave their own country and travel abroad and many don’t ever leave their own state. It is also true that many Capetonians are as hopeless when it comes to travelling in South Africa. We live in the most beautiful city in the world… so why bother checking out KwaZulu-Natal or Gauteng except to head straight for the bush? So I am pleased to announce… drum roll… that this Capetonian has not only discovered the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands (all by herself)… but is going to wax lyrical about it right here (please don’t blow my cover if you discovered it years ago).

What an incredible place to go on holiday. The route from Johannesburg into the Midlands is quite extraordinary. From the dry, red and largely barren route through the Highlands of Gauteng and the Free State, the road takes a beautiful deep dive over Van Reenen’s pass (with gorgeous sweeping views of the Drakensburg Mountains and Anglo-Boer War Battlefields Route) down into the valley below. Nostalgia is born to any African as the landscape changes and the long green grasses peppered with flat-topped Thorny Acacia trees stretch out far into the distance.

KwaZulu-Natal's Thorny Acacia (image: Robyn Hodson)

KwaZulu-Natal's Thorny Acacia (image: Robyn Hodson

Grassy Battlefields Route (image: Robyn Hodson)

Grassy Battlefields Route (image: Robyn Hodson)

Morning in the Drakensburg (image: Robyn Hodson)

Morning in the Drakensburg (image: Robyn Hodson)

Once in the Midlands, the best place to head off the big highway and start a gentle meander is Nottingham Road. And there you simply must meander… slowly, peacefully and bearing in mind that you don’t want to miss a thing. There are wonderful craft shops, places to stop for good food, country hotels, farms selling home-made cheeses, meats and baked goodies… a CHOCOLATIER… and two pretty impressive boarding schools : Hilton College and Michaelhouse. (NOTE to self: Please PLEASE read “SPUD” – written by home-grown J.H. van de Ruit. I think it’s one of the funniest books ever written and gives a marvellous character-study of the area and boarding schools in general). It really is all a little reminiscent of leafy England.

View from Swissland Cheese Tasting (image: Robyn Hodson)

View from Swissland Cheese Tasting (image: Robyn Hodson)

I promise to go into more detail next time about the Meander… and I can hardly wait to tell you about Karkloof Spa.

Karkloof Spa (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

Karkloof Spa (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

In this seasoned traveller’s opinion (and the reason I love my job so very muchly)… it’s one of the best spas I have ever had the pleasure of visiting… and probably the only one that has a grass roof and the truly surreal sight of a giraffe grazing on top.

NOTE : The giraffes are up to something. See blog below.

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  1. July 9th, 2009 at 02:19 45

    I was lucky enough as a child to have a mother who refused to holiday in the same place more than once, as a result we saw a huge part of our beautiful country. Camping, 5-day hikes, hotels, hostels – you name it I had seen it all before heading overseas to see what roads my itchy feet could wander on.
    I’m really glad you have had the opportunity to see what he other Provinces offer, and that is just the tip of the iceberg…

  2. July 9th, 2009 at 02:19 45

    great read. Great photos, the country looks beautiful! So stunning. RSA has so many great spas, any provence you go to there are quite a number of good ones, and some great spas in the wilderness!

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