There’s something so deeply relaxing about spending a few days in a holiday town. Oh, I know some people live in Knysna, but as opposed to the fast pace of Cape Town (and the simply frenetic pace of Joburg), Knysna is deliciously laidback.

We’ve spent our first few days here wandering around the various entertainment on offer for the Pick n Pay Knysna Oyster Festival (many of them, no surprise, involving oysters!) Highlights for me include:

* The Wade Bales Wine Tasting on Monday night – over 40 of South Africa’s top wine makers offering unlimited tastings to go with the cheese and biscuits or fresh oysters on offer.

* Taking a ride on the Carnival ferris wheel with stunning views of Knysna laid out on all sides.

* Checking out all the incredibly well-organised kids events (Cooking classes! Colouring in competitions! Pavement art contests! Sport!)

* Watching the Oystercatcher Oyster Shucking Contest (presented and surrounded by Tabasco to spice up the fresh oysters), while listening to a live band in a tent on the waterfront.

* Going on an oyster bed / Knysna Heads / mampoer tasting boat ride around the lagoon (fun except for the somewhat-terrifying ‘oyster shot’ – a raw oyster, a dash of lemon and some strawberry chilli mampoer. Yikes!)

* Indulging in an absolutely heavenly massage at Pezula… Absolutely heavenly. Followed by some down-time in the post-treatment room on a (wait for it) heated water bed that massages different sections of the body one at a time. And a deliciously fresh berry smoothie to bring me back to life. I’m still floating in a happy haze from that one.

Still to come is the PnP Knysna Oyster Festival Mardi Gras (apparently a highlight!)

I’ll let you know what it’s like… For now, though, what’s keeping you? Head to Knysna for a festival that manages to be both entertaining and relaxing. A rare and lovely combination!

Tatler has just awarded Karkloof Spa ‘Most Exciting Discovery 2009’ and it’s one of Condé Nast Traveller’s ‘Hot List Spas’ of the year. International applause for this fabulous South African destination spa… and definitely a reason to visit and see for myself.

I went in autumn when the late afternoon light lay golden over the winding rivers, pale orange over the lush landscapes and warm yellow on the road that wound up to the lodge. A white rhino gazed at us lazily over his grassy munchings and a few warthogs, tails on high alert, sprinted into the bushes.

Autumn light and warthogs (image: Robyn Hodson)

Lunching white rhino (image: Robyn Hodson)

The best part of the drive up to the lodge is that the whole place is barely visible… and the spa is set into the hillside with thatched and flat grass rooftops camouflaging any human activity from the wild animals that wander around the property (all vegetarians you’ll be pleased to know).

Hidden spa (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

The main lodge is huge, stylish and comfortable – cozy with generous fireplaces and heated floors for winter and then bright and cool in hot weather with large doors flung wide open to let in light summery breezes. The spacious outside balcony and comfortable setting is brilliant for sunset watching, champagne or G’nT drinking and romantic comfy couch snuggling!

Main lodge deck (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

Pool at main lodge (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

I loved my private villa – the best of the sixteen I thought! A lot of planning, intuition and skillful designing went into it. Perched on a hillside looking out at the best of the views it also had wrap around doors that could be fully retracted to make the most of the stunning scenery. I slept with the doors open all night and watched the sun rise from my bed, camera in hand.

Villa - lounge and view (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

I’l get back to you on the animals, walks, spa and food but suffice to say… I can’t think of anything negative. Start saving! And if you’re considering a private, relaxed, gourmet honeymoon… look no further!

A generalisation I know (but it works as a comparison) – most Americans don’t ever leave their own country and travel abroad and many don’t ever leave their own state. It is also true that many Capetonians are as hopeless when it comes to travelling in South Africa. We live in the most beautiful city in the world… so why bother checking out KwaZulu-Natal or Gauteng except to head straight for the bush? So I am pleased to announce… drum roll… that this Capetonian has not only discovered the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands (all by herself)… but is going to wax lyrical about it right here (please don’t blow my cover if you discovered it years ago).

What an incredible place to go on holiday. The route from Johannesburg into the Midlands is quite extraordinary. From the dry, red and largely barren route through the Highlands of Gauteng and the Free State, the road takes a beautiful deep dive over Van Reenen’s pass (with gorgeous sweeping views of the Drakensburg Mountains and Anglo-Boer War Battlefields Route) down into the valley below. Nostalgia is born to any African as the landscape changes and the long green grasses peppered with flat-topped Thorny Acacia trees stretch out far into the distance.

KwaZulu-Natal's Thorny Acacia (image: Robyn Hodson

Grassy Battlefields Route (image: Robyn Hodson)

Morning in the Drakensburg (image: Robyn Hodson)

Once in the Midlands, the best place to head off the big highway and start a gentle meander is Nottingham Road. And there you simply must meander… slowly, peacefully and bearing in mind that you don’t want to miss a thing. There are wonderful craft shops, places to stop for good food, country hotels, farms selling home-made cheeses, meats and baked goodies… a CHOCOLATIER… and two pretty impressive boarding schools : Hilton College and Michaelhouse. (NOTE to self: Please PLEASE read “SPUD” – written by home-grown J.H. van de Ruit. I think it’s one of the funniest books ever written and gives a marvellous character-study of the area and boarding schools in general). It really is all a little reminiscent of leafy England.

View from Swissland Cheese Tasting (image: Robyn Hodson)

I promise to go into more detail next time about the Meander… and I can hardly wait to tell you about Karkloof Spa.

Karkloof Spa (image: Courtesy of Karkloof Spa)

In this seasoned traveller’s opinion (and the reason I love my job so very muchly)… it’s one of the best spas I have ever had the pleasure of visiting… and probably the only one that has a grass roof and the truly surreal sight of a giraffe grazing on top.

NOTE : The giraffes are up to something. See blog below.