Getting up at the crack of dawn, we hopped onto the much-touted Train to the Clouds at 6.30 am… and it was well worth the early start. Climbing thousands of feet while hopscotching between the passenger cart, the lively bar (and its never-ending stream of hip-shockingly cool 80s music) and the dining cart, our day was filled with uninterrupted vistas of imposing mountain landscapes, bits of ice and snow and powder-blue skies.
It took our breath away. Literally. Because by the time we reached 4 000 feet above sea level (and counting), I was in the well-equipped and delightfully staffed hospital carriage – hooked up to an industrial-sized canister for a much-needed 10-minute oxygen boost.
Après our train journey, we hit the road again by mid-afternoon and out route took us past the picture-perfect and beautifully desolate salt plains of Salinas Grandes en route to Purmamarca’s delightful village of Cuesto de Lipan where we arrived at dusk. Enchanting, tranquil and very upmarket all at once, this little enclave yet again reminded half some of the quaintest hidden gems in the Karoo, with strong undercurrents of traditional Mexican villages. In fact, the typical architecture and tangible sense of community life dotting the landscapes of northern Argentina are belied by a sense of peace and quiet – and fresh air – that encapsulated South America’s singular charm.
La Comarca hotel is nestled in a narrow stretch of valley and blends in effortlessly with its awe-inspiring surrounding – filled with the textures and hues so typical of this stretch of the country bordering Bolivia. The sheer luxury of this quietly comfy hotel ensured that all three of us got the best night’s sleep on the trip so far and we woke refreshed and ready for another day of adventures… Fuelled by the hotel’s remarkably good coffee, we were on the road by 9. More about that soon. Riekie Human
